How to choose a straight razor

Shaving is a natural part of male culture. For many it is just a boring routine, for others it is a sacred ritual, with equipment of high standard and a mission to create a perfect result. Those who learns how to master shaving with a knife gets a feeling and closeness that no regular razor could never come near.

Buying a razor involves many choices, you have to choose between many different kind of blade sizes, shapes and materials. We will guide you through the jungle so you will find the knife that is right for you.

Fixed or disposable blade?

The first and most important choice is to choose between two completely different kind of knives. The classic knife has a fixed blade and is called Cut Throat Razor. The second alternative is a knife with a disposable blade also called Shavette.

Learn the difference between a Cut-Throat Razor and a Shavette here.

The different parts of a classic razor

When you are choosing a knife with a fixed blad you are faced with more choices, and the price scale could be all from 60-70 pounds to several hundreds or even thousands.

The handle

The handle of the razor affects the price and design more then the function and usability. Choosing a handle is a question of personal taste. The materials that are most common are plastic, wood, horn or bone. All materials works equal good, but by choosing a handle that you like, you make your razor unique and personal.

Blade materials

The most important thing about the blade is that it is sharp. Carbon steel from Solingen Germany or Sheffield Englad are a safe choice. They are often delivered sharpened and are ready to use immediately. Since Carbon steel is easy to rust, it is  important to wipe it off after you have used it, and do not forget to oil it. Another blade that is interesting is the Damaskus blade. The special thing about the blade is that the smith has put together different kinds of steel to get a perfect result. You will recognize it by its beautiful marbled pattern. It is also called the Rolls Royce of blades and the price of genuine Damascus knifes are very high.

Blade width

The width of the blade is measured in inches. The width affects the knifes weight and agility. A narrower blade around 5/8 inches is easier to control and therefore a excellent choice for a person with smaller hands. A wider blade around 6/8 inches is a perfect choice for experienced users.

Hollow / Ground

Blades are usually hollowed. A more concave hollow-ground blade provides a sharper knife with more flexibility but also a more aggressive knife. How the blade is hollowed affect the shaving experience. A younger skin which is firm and smooth do not require flexibility from the knife. Instead you can use a completely flat or wedge blade. When the skin gets older it loses elasticity and firmness, then you require a more cupped blade. A regular blade is a half hollowed blade and it often occurs in slightly cheaper version of knives. More hollowed blades is the most flexible and works on all skin type. A full hollowed blade is more expensive but also much sharper.

The nose

How the tip of the knife is designed affects the shaving. Sharp and clearly marked corners provides a high accuracy but increases the risk of cuts. Rounded corners are more forgiving but not as easy to provide to hard accessed areas. There are four popular noseforms. The most common is the rounded, it lacks clearly marked corners to minimizes the risk of cuts but lacks the accuracy for precision shaving. A knife we recommend to beginners and clean-shaved men. The French nose has a rounded upper side but a sharp marked corne. This provides a knife for easy access to inaccessible areas. The hook-sharped nose har a concave curve in the tip and it will provide a flexible blade that requires a practiced touch. The angular nose (square nose) is often used for precise shaving of small areas.

Technique

If you choose to shave with a cut-throat razor, you have to strop it first. Click here to learn how.