the best perfumes
– from each fragrance family
Written by Glenn Lauritz Andersson & Denis Vasilije, fragrance experts
Perfumes are often divided into different groups or categories – what we commonly call “fragrance families”. These families are defined by the dominant characteristics of a scent, and the French system is usually used as the foundation. Within each family there are often subgroups, and sometimes the borders between them overlap. Here, our fragrance experts highlight the best options from each category.
Summary
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A great perfume from each fragrance family gives you maximum flexibility in style and expression.
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Variety across fragrance families allows you to match your perfume to the occasion, mood, or season.
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Understanding different fragrance families helps you find a personal scent signature that truly stands out.
citrus
The citrus family is more diverse than one might think – beyond pure citrus scents, where citrus fruits take center stage, several subcategories exist in which citrus is supported or even overshadowed by other character-defining notes. Here are two excellent examples.
Citrus/woody: It is difficult to overlook Profumum Roma’s Acqua Viva – you simply won’t find a more intense citrus perfume, despite its subtle support from a nearly imperceptible cedarwood note. With 43% pure oil and an Amalfi lemon that almost can’t be washed off, it stands out dramatically, as citrus perfumes are typically light and fresh. A true citrus explosion, yet still clean and bright.
Citrus – green/spicy/floral: In this subgroup, citrus is complemented by spicy, sometimes powdery or floral notes. These scents often feel green, as the freshness is softened by herbal florals, and they can even be mistaken for a fougère such as Creed’s Green Irish Tweed (see below).
floral
Within the floral category, it may come as a surprise that the eccentric Alessandro Gualtieri has created one of the most romantic floral perfumes on the market – Narcotic Venus from his own house, Nasomatto. This creation overflows with jasmine, tuberose and lily, yet never becomes soft or timid – it is Alessandro, after all.
In the same family of pure florals, we also have Lily from the Abu Dhabi–based brand Rose Arabia (a sub-label of Widian), where carnation and lily of the valley are lifted by light citrus notes and pink pepper – refreshing and perfect for warm summer days.
woody
Woody notes appear in most perfumes, sometimes in the heart but more often in the base to provide depth and structure. But there are also scents built entirely around wood. Some of the best and purest examples come from Italian house Profumum Roma: Patchouli (with its damp, aromatic woody tone and a subtle hint of dark chocolate) and Arso (a full symphony of clean wood fibers). These are perfumes of true forest character.
Woody/spicy: A standout here is Duro from Nasomatto, where the wood almost blends into spices such as saffron. One of the best masculine evening and occasion scents available.
chypre
Chypre perfumes are often associated with forest-like elements combined with citrus, such as bergamot, and spices. The family was introduced by François Coty in 1917 and is therefore often linked to classic, old-school masculine perfumery. A fine example is Chypre Azural by Les Indemodables.
fougère
Fougère (“fern” in French) is another long-standing family that produces a classic masculine impression with forest, wood and mossy nuances. Lavender and oakmoss are typically the key notes.
Green fougère: One of the most beloved masculine categories. A true long-time favourite – especially among musicians and actors – is Creed’s iconic Green Irish Tweed, now around 40 years old. An herbal, grassy fougère – sporty yet elegant and timeless. Here, lavender is replaced by basil, vetiver and ambergris, balanced by verbena and lemon.
Aromatic fougère: In this variation, lavender plays a more dominant role, and the perfumes tend to be heavier. Penhaligon’s Sartorial is a perfect example, evoking the atmosphere of a tailor’s workshop – wax, threads, metal and powdery fabrics. It is likely Penhaligon’s most complex creation, with an endless list of notes – and one of their very best.
oriental
The oriental category includes perfumes with exotic character, featuring Oud, spices, honey, myrrh, cardamom and incense in varying degrees.
Milder and softer orientals include Penhaligon’s Halfeti – a gentle, beautifully balanced composition reminiscent of Turkish baths, widely loved for good reason.
In the more aromatic oriental direction – with woods, spices, balsamic smoke and sweetness – favourites include Widian’s New York and the smokier London (featuring raspberry), both carrying a strong thread of incense.
Oriental perfumes can also be surprisingly airy and floral, as in the beautiful Almond from Widian Rose Arabia, where tuberose meets dry, woody almond.
leather
Leather fragrances have become increasingly popular (also among women), and there is a lot of exciting territory within the category. Smoky leather, long a favourite, can be found in Orto Parisi’s bold Cuoium; but more refined, luxurious leather interpretations are appearing – such as Xerjoff’s Tony Iommi Deified, New Leather from Italian house New Notes, and green-tinged leather in Dusita Pelagos. For those who want bold, vintage masculine leather, Francesca Bianchi’s commanding The Black Knight is hard to beat.
aquatic / marine
Aquatic or “ozonic” perfumes are a relatively young family, but increasingly common. They often feature fresh, oceanic tones with associations of seawater, mountain air, clean breezes – typically light in character.
A fascinating perfume with extreme salty-marine character is Profumum Roma’s Acqua di Sale, where salt and ozone with a faint animalic nuance evoke vivid images of a fishing harbour in Smögen or the Italian coastline. Entirely unique – though not for everyone.
As with most fragrance families, there are subgroups:
Aquatic/aromatic: One of the finest in this category is Cap d’Antibes by Eight & Bob – marine notes with fruity sweetness, mint, violet leaf and herbs. A brighter, softer alternative from the same house is Pure Vienne.
sweet / gourmand
Sweet/fresh/fruity: These vanilla-based perfumes are often bright and fresh with touches of fruit or berries. The degree of sweetness varies – and Profumum Roma’s Acqua e Zucchero is a prime example of a perfume that is intensely sugary yet still wearable on a warm summer day.
Gourmand: Among fragrances reminiscent of foods or desserts, there is plenty to explore – but the standout star is undoubtedly Floraïku’s One Umbrella For Two. With only three notes (genmaicha tea, cedar and blackcurrant), it creates a convincing impression of freshly baked sponge cake. Another edible-inspired delight is Velvet Mokka from QOT.
