Which Oud Type Are You?
WRITTEN BY GLENN LAURITZ ANDERSSON & DENIS VASILIJE, FRAGRANCE EXPERTS
If you've been following the perfume world for a while, you've probably not been able to avoid the hype around the precious ingredient "oud," also known as liquid gold, in the past decade. But what not everyone thinks about is that there are as many types of oud, with different characteristics, as there are wearers. So here's a little list of oud fragrances that can suit different personalities.
For those who haven't heard of this exclusive raw material, it's worth mentioning briefly that oud oil is extracted from a resin of the agarwood tree Aquilaria agallocha, whose 15 different species grow scattered across Southeast Asia, Indochina, India, and Bangladesh. The resin is released as a defense mechanism when the tree is attacked by a specific mold fungus, and large quantities of oil are required to produce perfume. Not only is the agarwood tree population limited, but only a few specimens are infected by the fungus. It's self-evident that such a raw material becomes extremely valuable and sought after, with a value comparable to that of gold. Especially since agarwood trees are constantly threatened by extinction, logging, and illegal oil smuggling, which is why the trees are now protected, and efforts are made to certify, regulate, and replant them.
What makes oud so special and highly sought after as a fragrance ingredient? Well, it simply has a distinct dark, intensely aromatic, and woody tone that, like ambergris, adds depth and complexity to a scent. Sometimes, it even evokes a sense of luxury. But oud has many faces – each species and region has its own type of oud with its own character, and how the oil is extracted and processed also contributes to its style. So, oud can range from woody and spicy to floral, chocolatey, sweet, and animalic.
So, how do you know which one to choose? What types of people might appreciate the different variations of oud? Here are some suggestions based on personality type and occasion. Maybe you'll recognize yourself? Join in!
OUD FOR "BEGINNERS"
When we talk about "beginners" here, we refer to those who are delving into the mysteries of oud for the first time and want to start cautiously. Here, the DNA of the perfumes often consists of synthetic ouds (in some cases even small amounts of authentic oud), preferably dry, slightly "European" spicy, and woody – dark but accessible, often a bit dressed up and sophisticated like Acqua di Parmas Oud and English Thameen Londons Carved Oud, both excellent for a soft start.
For those who appreciate a more velvety sweet style, there's Honey Oud from the classic brand Floris Similarly, with its hints of honey and amber, is a safe choice Molton Browns Mesmerising Oudh Accord & Gold (EdP) is a favorite with its subtly dark woody notes and certain hints of cognac from honey and spices, while those who are already venturing into a slightly tougher entry point may choose the smokier Oud Abramad from French BDK, with more prominent oud alongside castoreum.
OUD FOR THE LUXURY LOVER
So, we open the wallet and bring out the best here, because here it's about oud perfumes that are especially exclusive, with elegance and luxury as keywords. The obvious choice for the business executive and those who strive for that little extra, where the perfume should go hand in hand with the Rolex watch. Here we talk almost always about genuine oud, often unique but still easy to wear. Primarily, these consist of Southeast Asian ouds, whose character style is notably woody and potent without being smoky or having any animalic notes.
The Parisian brand Fragrance du Bois The Parisian brand has its own plantations in Asia, and their luxurious, sophisticated Parisian Oud is based on a woody, dry oud from Indonesia, which also features hints of pink pepper and floral accents, almost sparkling. If one wishes to delve into a more oriental direction, it's hard to ignore Roja Parfums Kampuchea Noir, an attar (pure essential oil in 10 ml), valued at a million kronor per liter, in typical "Middle Eastern style". Soft, woody, and fresh, yet with incredible longevity, extracted from a very old wild oud from the Cambodian jungle.
For those who want to go all-in and have the absolute most exclusive, the Japanese brand takes the lead Di Ser definitely taking the top spot with its wonderfully woody, potent, and aromatic Kyara - the bosses' favorite - known for its pure extracts, here made from the now extinct Indonesian species of agarwood with the same name, making the perfume completely unique, not least because the supply is extremely limited, something that naturally affects the price.
OUD FOR THE BOLD
So, we come to those who may have trained their noses for a while and have a slightly special taste, appreciating something a bit challenging. Here we're talking about ouds in the category of "animalic" or "dirty", often referred to as barnyard due to their references to stable and manure. It's a subcategory that doesn't appeal to everyone and requires both courage and confidence, but it has garnered a solid following among perfume enthusiasts and connoisseurs. On the right skin type, these "sweet" ouds can actually settle quite nicely and become beautiful wood and leather compositions. These ouds typically originate from India, Bangladesh, and Laos.
Bortnikoffs Lao Oud, featuring oud from Laos, is a typical example of these hard-to-access but fascinating, animalic oud scents. Here we're talking about absolutely pure ingredients and high concentration from an eccentric perfumer who is unique within the genre. More animalic sweetness can be found in Ceylon from Xerjoff's Oud Stars series, containing oud from Malaysia and India combined with honey, flowers, and vanilla. If the choice is for scents with a unique barnyard character, there's hardly anything more photorealistic than Hasunoito from Di Ser, containing kyara oud combined with lotus blossom and violet leaves, reminiscent of a warm and clean goat barn.
As you can see, there is oud for every taste. Feel free to visit our boutiques to test or order samples on our website.