barbershop scents
5 masculine perfumes that smell of barbershop and classic retro
Written by GlenN lauritz andersson & denis vasilije, fragrance experts
Are you one of those perfume connoisseurs who are a bit old school and have a weakness for the classically masculine, scents that remind you of old-fashioned barbershops and hairdressers? Are you looking for a counterbalance to all things modern and want to go back to the origins? Put on your Stetson and let Gents take you on a scent journey to the land of retro with tips on everything from old favourites to modern reinterpretations of the theme. Maybe a few of them will even find a place on your bathroom shelf?
FLORIS SPECIAL NO 127 EDT 100 ML
This mythical citrus classic from English Floris is arguably the one that best symbolises old-school Britishness. Its well-known origins as the eau de toilette used by Winston Churchill in the 1930s is enough in itself to qualify it for any gentleman's bathroom cabinet.
What most people don't realise is that it's actually even older - created back in 1890 for Russia's Grand Duke Orloff and then known as "Orloff Special". And indeed, its refreshing and aromatic notes of bergamot, lavender, petit-grain, orange flower and musk evoke both elegance and sophistication. Whether you're sitting in the cigar room of a sophisticated English gentlemen's club with a sherry or in the barber's chair of an East End barbershop, it's as perfect an accessory as the moustache, pocket watch and billycock hat. A timeless masterpiece.
ROJA PARFUMS SCANDAL POUR HOMME PARFUM COLOGNE
English master perfumer Roja Dove is perhaps best known for his perfume cologne classic Elysium pour homme, but the fougere scent Scandal is probably the one in the range that has the most palpable barbershop character. Aromatic, green, spicy and woody with a hint of citrus, it shouldn't disappoint any retro fan, even though it wasn't actually launched that many years ago. The inspiration for the scent goes way back, but the execution and complexity reveal a much more modern DNA than the weak colognes of the past.
For a perfume to be classified as fougère, it must be composed of lavender, oak moss and coumarin (an herbaceous, sweetish accord characterised by freshly cut hay, among other things), but also often contains citrus and floral notes. In Scandal pour homme we find bergamot, lemon, lavender, rhubarb, herbs, violet, rose de mai, musk patchouli, sandalwood and tonka bean.
THAMEEN BOHEMIAN INFUSION
Bohemian Infusion, from English Thameen's cologne-inspired The Britologne Collection, is an interesting reinterpretation of the barbershop theme with a scent that bears clear traces of old-fashioned fresh, soapy creations, but with a modern twist. Elegant, powdery, masculine and very fresh with hints of classic, refreshing shaving foam.
Cardamom, coarse petitgrain, blackcurrant and grapefruit are combined with cinnamon, myrrhum and wormwood to create a modern retro vibe with subtle woody base notes that feels as luxurious in everyday life as it does with a dressed-up suit, and is especially good in the summer months. Comes in an elegant and stylish frosted glass bottle with a beautifully ribbed cork stopper reminiscent of the aftershaves of yesteryear.
ROSENDO MATEU NO. 1
A common category in the barbershop fragrance group is fresh citrus colognes, and aside from the Italians and Turkey, few can deliver fresh, classic citrus in the best aftershave style like Spain, where this style of fragrance has been a staple since the 1930s. The Spanish perfumer who has carried on this tradition is Rosendo Mateu from Catalonia, who, together with his son, has been bringing citrus colognes into the modern era since 2017 and further developing them based in Barcelona.
No 1, the first fragrance in the First Collection, is also the freshest and most traditional, with a cool, marine citrus in the form of lime, bergamot and tangerine, along with lavender, iris, neroli, white musk and herbal and floral agents evoke the fresh, timeless feeling of walking out of the salon clean and freshly shaved. Especially in summer, when its associations with the Mediterranean are at their best, it is a wonder in all its simplicity.
GEO F TRUMPER EUCRIS EDt
Geo F. Trumper's classic eau de toilette Eucris in splash version was launched as early as 1912 and is even mentioned in Ian Fleming's book Diamonds are forever, where it is James Bond's favourite scent. This one stands out from the others on the list with its dark, masculine notes and slightly bold, aromatic character. If you're a fan of harder, dark chypres and don't worship citrus, but still with a fresh, classic retro touch, this is an interesting choice and - like the classic Spanish Leather - would be a good fit as a deeper, heavier alternative on the shelves of early 20th century barbershops. Peppery, anise-like cumin, ripe blackcurrant, musk, soapy oakmoss, floral notes and creamy sandalwood form a timeless creation in the best old-school masculine style.
The fragrance was also launched in 2017 in a more concentrated and reformulated version in the form of EdP.